Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Hazards of the Language Barrier, Part 1: Richard get's tossed

My first class each morning lasts from 9:00 a.m. until 10:45 a.m. or so. The professor, Angel, is an excellent one, and I always leave class with primed enthusiasm, better understanding of the language, and a need to use the bathroom. My classes during this second period are in a different building than those of last semester, el edificio de negocios (business building). The walk to class is slightly longer, and I climb an extra flight of stairs, leaving me a little winded when I arrive to class, but none of this drawbacks could outweigh the benefit of immeasurably better bathrooms. They are cleaner, have larger stalls (Hudini would have had trouble relieving himself in the stalls of the previous building), are void of puddles of water that force me to hold my pants around my knees to keep them from getting wet, and even have a higher quality brand of toilet paper. So I left the bathroom in an unavoidably dandy mood and climbed back up the stairs to my classroom where I ran into Korey. Korey related to me a story that I didn't expect. Not at all. She said: "So...Richard just told me he got kicked out of class."

Yass. Kicked out of class. In the files that Korey, Richard, and I store in our heads, Richard's grammar professor, Gloria, has a hefty rapsheet after only one week of classes. Gloria is Mexican, but easily achieves a higher mark on the Stu-Chipman Scale of un-Mexicanity than did the previous pack leader, Maggie (Korey's ex-host mother.) She is a funny shape, about 6' 1'', 105 lbs, with elbows and knees that look like garden stakes, a chin that looks like a spade, and cheekbones that look like a normal chin. Her hair is almost jet-black, and her eyes have a slightly Asian quality to them, which could be due to the incredible amount of time she spends with the Asian students studying at UAG. This process is described in a song by the Vapors' 1980 smash hit, "I think I'm turning Japanse." Japanese definitely qualifies as un-Mexican. For whatever reason, presumably the described transformation, Gloria has a poor understanding of all things fun, funny, or fun-related. She is unhumanly rational in a way that would make Fredrick Winslow Taylor nod with approval (but only for a second before he moved on to evaluate the efficiency of something else). Last Friday, when Richard stopped into class on our way to the doctor's office to tell Gloria that we would all be missing class on account of violent, abnormal discharge from both sides of our digestive system, Gloria was skeptical, and told Richard to return to class after he saw the doctor. Of course he did not, as we were diagnosed with gastriticiticisus or something like that, and none of we three could go more than 25 minutes without a visit to the bano (bathroom). Gloria then proceeded to lack any sort of helpful or compassionate character trait while Richard was trying to catch up in the classes he missed, collecting his assigments (completed with no direction), and grading them without giving him a chance to revise them and without returning them with an explanation of what he misunderstood or any correcting guidance. One can also deduce, by the vigor with which she persues social relations with the Asian students, that she has not other friends. On a final note, she has put on her daily quizzes to the class such questions as "If you were in love with your professor, would you tell her?" So that's Gloria.

Here are the events of the day: Richard was in his grammar class, and for whatever reason, there was a group of Asian students and Gloria laughing about something that meritted no laughter, certainly not the level of laughter which they were offering, and Richard took it upon himself to say, "Esta tonta." Of course, Richard meant this in the sense of "You're silly," "You're crazy," or "You're stupid (right now)." Gloria did not think this was funny or acceptable, nor did she take into account that Richard is well gringo and doesn't have a masterful understanding of the implications of all the words in the Spanish language. Her silly, un-called for expression turned to ice-cold, puppy-skinning resentment, she pointed at the door, and said "Afuera(out)." Richard tried to plead, apologize, and explain his error, but she simply repeated to say "afuera." So Richard left the classroom. He went and explained the situation to the director of the program, who took Richard back to class and negotiated conditions under which Richard could return to his learning position. Richard had to apologize to the entire class along with Gloria.

I think this unfortunate lack of social understanding on the part of the professor is, well, unfortunate. But when misfortune's worst injuries are Richard getting tossed out of class, I think it's hilarious.

Until next time, be safe, check the batteries in your smoke detectors, and enjoy summer.

Stu

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Cafe Tocuva: Pictures and Videos




Nothing but visuals, son.








Best. Concert. Ever.

Last week, El Profesor Edgardo (pictured here with his wife, Mariana) informed me that Cafe Tocuva would be playing in Guadalajara. I had seen them play once in Detroit with my brother and his wife, and instantly got excited. Cafe Tocuva could be described as the Aerosmith of Mexico. They are all 40-some years old now after decades of rockin. They play a wide variety of rock/pop music. They are very talented musicians and great showmen, as opposed to just great showmen (AC/DC, Motley Crue) or just great musicians (Beethoven). In Detroit, they played at St. Andrew's hall, which is a very small venue with standing room only. Here in Guadalajara, they played at Arena Vicente Fernandez, a massive rodeo stadium. The atmosphere's were very different.

We got tickets at a record store for $308 pesos each. There was an issue of transportation, because the stadium is 45 minutes from our house, but that problem was solved when Edgardo offered to give us a ride. Thus, the night began with the pregame: a 1.5 liter water bottle filled with ron con coca (rum and coke). Edgardo informed us that Bacardi is called "Cacardi" in Mexico. Caca like poop for all you mono-linguals. At the stadium, they served only Estrella; if Estrella existed in the U.S., it would only be consumed by 15-year-old, Nascar fans, and trailer-park gangs. But it mattered not, the situation called for the consumption of alcohol. We also grabbed some personal pizzas for around $2 U.S. We timed our pre-concert ingestions perfectly, getting into the arena and to our seats just as the chants of "culero! culero!" turned into roars of approval, greeting the band to the stage. Edgardo and Mariana bought tickets for ground level. I have a medium level of fear for the ground level at Mexican concerts, which host violent mosh-pits for songs mellow and up-tempo. At St. Andrew's Hall, millions of bruises were born in a few short hours, and one fight nearly broke out (it was prevented by the world-class bouncers at St. Andrew's Halls that received a write-up in the Rolling Stone). So we bought our tickets for the first level above ground level. The view was fantastic, and what was lost in intimacy was gain in personal health. Even at our seats, sitting was for the weak, who were immediately sacrificed at the end of the concert. We danced, sang, and screamed like hell, surrounded by 60,000 Mexicans chanting "Ole! Ole! Ole, Ole, Ole! Cafe! Ole!"

There isn't much more to say. Concerts were not meant to be experienced through written prose. I will, over the course of the next few hours, post several videos and pictures to help you understand the levels of euphoria realized at Wednesday's show. Until next time, stay healthy, and eat some American cuisine for me (I am beginning to miss it so much.)

Ricardo, Korey, Stu, and Ciprobac vs. The Spirit of Montezuma



















For the past 48 hours, Richard, Korey, and I have been tormented by intense diarrhea and occasional vomiting. Collectively, we have missed 30 hours of class, and one hour of dance class due to this illness. We never drank the unfiltered water of Mexico, nor have we eaten food off the street. What agent introduced the illness is yet and will forever be unknown. Thursday morning was when I started experiencing symptoms, and I attributed my suffering to the activities of the previous night (the Cafe Tocuva concert, blog coming soon). However, when the pain and various discharge only increased with time, I was convinced that there was a separate power at play. Richard had been a little sick the day before, and then Korey fell ill on Friday. After spending all of Thursday night on the John, and throwing a substance with the color and consistency of green jello that has been pushed through one's front teeth, I began to fear for my well-being. Rosi and Paco sent us to the doctor at the UAG, free for students. We got up Friday morning and waddled to the bus stop trying not to crap ourselves, and took the bus to the UAG. There, were were diagnosed with intestinal infections. (some of the tests involved pressing on various points on our abdomen, which nearly caused us to soil his medical bench.) This is a common affliction among foreigners in Mexico, referred to as Montezuma's Revenge. Faced with the 400-year-old spirit of an Aztec Emperor, we decided we needed help, and teamed up with the antibiotic Cibrobac. They gave us most of the drugs for free, but we had to get some painkillers from the pharmacy, so we walked back. This was more or less a trail-of-tears sort of experience. We were all dehydtrated, filled with bacteria and the gas that comes with it, about to soil ourselves, and fatigued from lack of sleep. During the two mile hike back, I tried to use the bathroom at the pharmacy, but thankfully noticed there was no toilet paper before I went. Holding it thus, I powerwalked back to the house, once stubbing my toe on an un-level piece of sidewalkn, nearly causing a disaster.

After 24 horus of medication and rest, the 3 of us are recovering rapidly. The lesson here, it's nearly impossible to aviod the spirit of Montezuma, but he is no match for modern medicine.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Ziplines, Leprosy, and Drunk Three-year-olds.









In the United States, I was told more than once that La Universidad Autonoma de Guadalajara is comparable to the Duke of the United States: a very ritzy, hard to gain entry into, expensive, full of rich kids and geniuses, etc. I informed many people that this was the case. However, things here at the UAG (the oo-ah-hay), appear quite different. In a conversation with my professor here, I was told that it used to be one of the best schools in the Republic, with fantastic programs in law (derecho), medicine (medicina), education (educacion), engineering (inginieria), and virtually everything else. Since those days, programs have become outdated, and much of the prestige has left the school. The medical school is still one of the best in the country, and there are a piles of foreigners including Americans that come to the UAG to make themselves doctors, but in other areas, the percentage of geniuses has been replaced with country-club kids, because the school is still incredibly expensive. Everybody here wears really nice cloths, drives to school in there new cars, all that garbage. El departmento de intercambio (sound it out) is a different story, but we extranjeros (foreigners) still get to enjoy the flow of wealth through our host school. One sunny afternoon, there was a virtual carnival in the courtyard of the school, and all was free. So instead of returning home for lunch we rode ziplines from the 5th floor of academic buildings, raced eachother inside of 12-foot-tall bubbles, and jumped 30ft into the air on bungie-trampolines. The entire time, we could feel the education washing over us and the academia flowing through our vains.

One of the delayed tragedies of the Puerto Vallarta Trip (besides the aguamala, the bite of which can again be seen here; those white spots are the poison rushing into my body) was Richard's intense sunburn. He basically looked like a Hiroshima survivor or a lepor, go with whichever is less offensive to you. A week before we departed for the gran PV, I talked Richard into cutting his hair down to the length of mine, thereby exposing his tender, Northern-European head to more unforgiving Mexican sun. This didn't bode well on the playas of PV, and Richard was left in prolonged agony, and Korey and I were left being struck by giant flakes of scorched skin which flew from Richard's tormented scalp. To reduce the hazard of flying, disgusting objects, we borrowed a really stiff brush from Paco and exfoliated the hell out of Richard's noggen. This video here captures the emotion of the situation pretty well, with only minimal vulgarity or disturbing images. Unfortunately, there is no Spanish to be learned here. I apologize to Brittany Ockenfels, who has (through family members) expressed disgust with my choice to write this blog in the language of the motherland. My sympathies go out to Brittany, but the purposes of the blog are to entertain the folks back home and to let them know I'm still alive, only one of which would be accomplished by a blog in a language which only she and my brother could understand. With that, here is the video.

Yesterday, Korey moved in with the same family as Richard and I. This was a pretty big step for our friendship, but Richard and I decided it would be cool to not have to walk 25 minutes over to Korey's house all the time, and she doesn't shower in the morning, so it wouldn't really break our balls that much. Korey relocated because the ruling authority at her previous house, Maggie, was a nazi (not in a political sense, but it describes her attitude and level of hospitality well.) The family was fairly wealthy, but informed Korey that she shouldn't endulge in the many luxuries of their suburbanite life because it wasn't really Korey's house; she was just on vacation. It didn't matter that she paid $400 a month to live there. The rest of the family is very friendly and fun, but the said person really ruined it for everbody. She is possibly the most un-Mexican Mexican I have met here in Mexico. So Korey bounced.
To celebrate this relocation to a better place/ escape from evil, and to just generally express to our family how much we appreciate them being so fantastic, Richard, Korey, and I cooked some glorious American cuisine for everybody. Richard made this macaroni and cheese caserole that made one's pupils dilate and drool pour from the lower lip (because of sabor (flavor) not any added substances), I prepared some Magnolia Street-style shishkabobs on the grill that gave me an excellent opportunity to employ the wisdom handed down from Clayton Sheldon to my brother and to me from him (the deliciousness of these 'shkabobs, as well, left people in various states of euphoria), and Korey made fruit-pizza for dessert. The original plan for the fruit pizza was to have a sugar-cookie crust, but by the grace of God (probably the Catholic one), sugar cookie materials aren't sold in Mexico (and neither is lemon juice, oddly, which left me crushing lots of lemons to make the marinade), and Korey was forced to make the fruit pizza with a brownie crust. This fruit pizza was nothing short of heavenly, and even after everybody overate on the caserole and 'shkabobs, all found room for two or three helpings of dessert.
There were a number of setbacks along the way to feast-heaven. First, we slept in really late, so we didnt' really even go shopping until like, 1pm, and we were supposed to eat at 3pm. Then, we went to the supermarket, and they didnt' have everything that Korey needed, so Korey and Richard went to another supermarket to find that, and I carried the mountain of groceries that we had already bought back to the house (over a mile). En camino (on the way) to the house, all the bags broke, and I was forced to remove my shirt to carry them the rest of the way (75%). It made me wish I lifted more weights. Oh well. The people of Guadalajara were disgusted. What more, it took a while to get the grill lit. I blame the poor quality of the carbon we were using. It was a third the price of the rest, what could I expect? But after a 40-minute effort by Paco, Paco, and Stu, we got the thing lit. During this endeavor, I noticed in a newspaper we were using to create flames a strange advertisement. The peculiarity is pictured here. Or at least, it WOULD be pictured here if computer malfunctions hadn't ruined that for everybody. So instead, here is a picture of me and Korey being disgusted with the computer. A rough translation of the advertisement: "hospital for sale." Everything else went smooth.

While we feasted, 3-year-old Prescot Espino found his way into a cup of wine. What follows is the conversation surrounding the kid with the cup of wine, in the form of a screenplay:
Abuela (gma): "No, Prescott, tiene vino." (no, prescott, there is wine in this)
Prescott: "Me gusta el vino." (I like wine).
All: "Jajajajaja!" (hahahahaha).
(italicized), Prescott drinks the entire cup of wine and proceeds to stumble around and have mood swings.

Pictured here is the very cheery Prescott, on his way to la cuidad borracha (drunktown).








Until next time, keep it real, and eat your vegitables.

PEACE
stu

Monday, June 8, 2009

What happens in Puerto Vallarta....goes on the blog for the world to see

I apologize for this giant empty space. I couldn't get rid of it without losing pictures. just scroll down. thanks. I will fill it with a picture of an old Church in PV and of Richard being dumb.













This past weekend, team Michigan-plus-one-from-Wisconsin departed for Puerto Vallarta. For roughly $130 dollars per person, we got tickets for the 4 1/2 hour bus ride to and from our destination--which came with really comfortable chairs, a non-stop flow of "Friends" in Spanish on good sized plasma screens, a bag lunch, and one screaming Mexican toddler--two nights at a 'four-star' all-inclusive resort (Mesa del Mar), and taxi ride from the airport to our overrated abode. Prices are down right now because todos los gringos tienen miedo del influenca y narcos (all the white people are afraid of the flu and druglords). All accomodations were about 40% cheaper than they were prior to the flu scare. It served us well, and we took advantage of the epidemic. The weekend trip was not always what one would call "fun," but it often was and it left us with a multitude of stories to tell. If this were a Law and Order episode, it would start:

"In the commercial tourist business of Mexico, white people are catered to by hordes of friendly workers, and encouraged to do anything that will equal profit or entertainment for the people of Mexico. Here are their stories."

The bus ride, as stated, was about 4.5 hours long. It was essentially all mountains, right up to the beaches of Puerto Vallarta, where there was about 200 feet of sand between the bases of the mountains and the Pacific ocean. We were very much in the jungle, which was wierd for me, because I only know the jungle from movies, and I have never seen a giant tour-bus clamoring through the jungle on a paved highway in any of those movies. I wouldn't mind seeing Harrison Ford or the Rock fight some infuriated aboriginal protector-of-ancient-treasure or some greedy British collector threatening the existence of the planet on the top of the big red bus we were riding in. If anybody reading this knows somebody in Hollywood, throw that one on the table, see what they think. At any rate, some of the gringas (white girls) were getting a little motion sick on the giant, swaggering bus as it barrelled through the wild at high altitudes, often overlooking rocky declines of death. Nobody threw up, though I almost did when I used the bus bathroom.

We got to Puerto Vallarta--after some confusion with the cabi over whether or now we were entitled to the ride we had already paid for at the travel agency-- and saw our hotel. I arrived believing that I was going to stay at a four-star resort with 4 restaurants and a bar, with wireless internet and phones and a TV. What we encountered was a four-star resort with one buffet-style restaurant 6 floors from our room (the elevators really didn't work) and one very limited restaurant on the beach (11 floors down the stairs) --both of these places closed at 10pm--there were no TVs, which didn't matter because we weren't going to watch it anyway, no phones, which didn't matter igualmente (equally), and no internet, which mattered alot because Korey and I were supposed to send stories into the Vanguard to be printed on Sunday (sorry Sarah). But we refused to be discouraged, and immediately went to the very limited bar with only three kinds of beer (estrella, Sol, y Dos Equis). This is my diagnosis of the situation: sometime around 194o of 1950, La Mesa Del Mar received a 4-star rating (it was one of three or four resorts at the time), and since then, it has just refused to be re-rated, not keeping up with the times and retaining its antique, 4-star status. If I were a critic, however, I would have given the beach 5-stars (until later chaos ensued). I was told most of the beaches in PV were rocky; ours was not. It was soft and sandy and the depth of the water increased at a perfect rate. The view was gorgeous, as one can see here. Also, Vicente brought us as many drinks and plates of nachos as we wanted while we were down on la playa (beach). There was a high risk of sunburn, which Korey and Richard chose to protect against with sunblock that Richard took from his African American friend (surprisingly, the sunblock failed and they were both burnt to a crisp.) I, on the other hand, went with SPF 1-million--the shade--and was only darkened while I frolicked in the waves or strolled on the beach. Pictured here are me and Korey, and a number of glasses that represents about 20% of the drinks we desired on the beach. Notice that Korey is drinking some wierd, pink, gringa shit and I am delving into a michelada, which I commonly refer to as the blood of Mexico.

There were other hazards on the beach, though, that provoke me to reduce my 5-star rating of the beach to a 2.5 star rating. Korey stepped on the severed head of a barracuda, cutting her foot. There were hour-long spans where we couldn't swim because there were flocks of sting-rays patroling the shore for Australian people. There were flocks of salesmen shoving cheap plastic crap in our faces, telling us that their family of artisans made it (I would then ask if Alfredo, the man who tried to sell me an identical blanket with the same story, is a part of his artisan family, at which point the truth was out and the vendor and I would just chat for a few more seconds before the went on to harass more people.) Alfredo tried really hard to sculpt his lie about how his family made blankets, even showing me a blanket with flaws in the pattern and telling me his children who were still learning made it. I saw the same blanket in several locations around PV. It hurt. There were also a number of diseased looking birds that had little respect for the cultural norms for social promity and chose to get close enough to me that I could have slapped it if I thought it wouldn't have started another epidemic in Mexico.

The most pressing threat on the beach, I think, were the aguamalas (jellyfish), also called "medusas." As we were all laughing and giggling like children in the waves, Richard complained that he thought he might have been bitten by something on the shoulder. We all gathered around in the knee-deep water to look at the tiny little pick-mark on Richard's shoulder. As we did so, a wave crashed into the back of our legs, carrying with it this spawn-of-satan, which wrapped itself around my lower leg, causing me to cry out in pain and sprint to shore. At first, it just stung, like I had been stung by a special-ops team of abejas (bees), but within minutes, the poison from the little bastards began to set in and the entire left side of my body was charged with a combination of two sensations: being struck in the testicles and wacking one's funny-bone on a marble counter. Pictured here is the mark left by the medusa. The picture doesn't capture the mark at all, so if you just imagine the Greek alphabet writen on the segment of leg shown here in a red, 3-D pen, you are imagining the scar. We tried several methods of abating the pain, most of which were drawn from knowledge Richard gained from an episode of Mythbusters. We scraped the back of my legs with cards to removed the small poison-pods. We rubbed hot sand on the leg. Richard peed on the wound (not a joke, that happened.) Here is me laying in agony as that mix of sensations I previously described began to set in. I also drank 4 shots of Vodka to numb myself. The only thing that immediately stopped the pain was Richard's urine, but I was so grossed out that I rinsed it off quickly and the relief was gone. A few minutes after we tried all the remedies but rubbing hot sand on it, we went back down to the beach, because I didn't want to ruin the party for everybody. When we got to the beach, they rubbed hot sand on the wound, and I began throwing up yellow bile from the pain. I know what you are thinking: are there any pictures of Stu throwing up? YES! but the bile really isn't captured, so you don't get to see the plutonium-like glow of absorbed jellyfish poison. Thankfully, I didn't lose any of the medicinal vodka I had ingested, and in short order I stopped feeling all together and we went on a walk down the beach where I happily told everybody of my misfortune, including the pee.

After several hours, the pain and drunkness began to fade, and we went into PV el centro to see the nightlife. But, before we went, we ate dinner. When dinner ended, Korey and Richard went to the bar and we the others sat and talked for about 25 minutes. In those 25 minutes, Korey and Richard exhausted the bar of its liquor. In a role reversal from Tequilla, I watched over them as they stomped around Puerto Vallarta. We stopped into on ridiculous club, watched a few minutes of ameteur rock music, saw alot of cool sand sculptures, played on some statues, and used a public restroom or two. After only about an hour, we went back to the hotel and stayed up really late telling life stories (once, going to the Oxxo to get ice cream.)

We got up the next day, checked out, and headed back to Guadalajara, where we didn't do the homework that was due in the morning and told everybody about how Richard peed on me.

Until next time, no hagas nada malo que no hiciera ya (don't do anything bad I wouldn't do.) And remember to brush your teeth.

-Stu